Tariffs shock French cosmetics/ One in 5 perfumes sold abroad are bought by Americans
US threats of a 30 percent tariff on imports from the European Union have left the beauty industry in France shaken, with doubts about how much American consumers will be prepared to pay.
The FEBEA union, which represents the French beauty industry, said exports to the United States reached nearly 3 billion euros in 2024, representing about 12 percent of the total. Perfumes accounted for just over half of that, with one in five sold abroad being purchased by an American consumer, FEBEA said.
The US export market was growing, but is threatened by Trump's 30 percent tariff if a deal with the EU is not reached by August 1.
Anne-Marie Gabelica is the founder of the cosmetic brand Oolution and a member of "La French Beauty", a collective of independent French cosmetic brands that runs a boutique in the heart of Paris.
"For French cosmetics brands, exports are an essential way out. It's not always easy to imagine, but some French brands are mainly sold only outside France," she said.
If the tariffs go into effect, French brands will have to look for other markets, Gabelica said. FEBEA sees potential for growth in Brazil and India.
"Le Rouge Francais" specializes in plant-based beauty products and commands a higher price for its more complex production process and luxury profile.
Many of the lipsticks that roll off its production line west of Paris in France's "Cosmetic Valley" are destined for export, 25 percent of them to the United States.
Co-founder Salem Ghezaili said they were considering channeling imports through a US company to reduce the impact of tariffs, but that remains uncertain.
For FEBEA, the impact on the French economy of 30 percent tariffs would be dramatic. A study by economic consultants Asterès said it could lead to the loss of thousands of jobs.
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